A BUYING TRIP TO BURGUNDY AND THE LOIRE
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Our last tasting on Tuesday was at -
Domaine Michel Servean, La Rochepot.
Michel Serveau is an amusing fellow who likes to fill you in on a bit
of gossip each visit. He is also a talented winemaker, for both reds
and whites. A bottle of his red Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune 1996
opened recently was mighty impressive, with the ripeness, richness and
beauty characteristic of the loveliest red burgundies. His whites age
well too, always exhibiting good structure.
His white Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune 2000, the first wine we tasted,
is even better than his outstanding 1999. I could go on about its attributes,
but ultimately it's better because it tastes more delicious. And for
me that's what counts. His red Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune 2000
is a lovely drink, ready for drinking now, unlike his 1999 which needs
keeping. I have already bought some of his 2000 and will buy more.
We also tasted his Chassagne-Montiachet 2001. Again, I was impressed.
It seemed soft, approachable and very pretty. I have bought the 1995
and 1997 in the past, and they are taking a long time to come round.
The 1997 is still not really showing at its peak, and the 1995 is only
now beginning to fire on all cylinders. I'm thinking of buying the 2001,
but I might have to keep it for five years......
I like to have this account of my trip to France ready for the London
tasting. I've run out of time.
I will just tell you about the patron who offered to sell me his hotel.
It is the hotel (half chateau) I stayed in last year. The house is a
maison forte - a sort of fortified house with a moat. It has been beautifully
restored by the patron. Last year there was a woman about the place who
seemed to be in charge. This time she wasn't there. Also, last time,
the restaurant was full. This time only one other table was taken. It
has a Michelin rosette, I like the cooking here, and standards are being
maintained, but the place did have an air about it of not succeeding
somehow. For instance, the wine list appeared to contain the same bottles
as a year ago.
The loo in our bedroom didn't work that night. The patron came to fix
it personally at eleven o'clock at night.
The next morning, when I was paying him I asked if we could look round
upstairs because it's such a wonderful building. He said no, it was private,
that was where be lived. I said oh. And he said unless I wanted to buy
it..... And laughed. Somehow I felt he wasn't joking.
Tom Innes
Fingal-Rock
Monmouth
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